Walking Old Tripoli
Two self-guided walks — the Mamluk old city of souks, khans and the citadel, and the El-Mina seafront — with honest timing, effort and etiquette.
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Two self-guided walks — the Mamluk old city of souks, khans and the citadel, and the El-Mina seafront — with honest timing, effort and etiquette.
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Tripoli holds the largest collection of Mamluk-era architecture in Lebanon, almost all of it packed into a dense old city that is still a working market, not a museum. These are two self-guided walks — one through the old city's mosques, khans and souks, one along the El-Mina seafront — written to be done at your own pace, on foot, for free.
One more landmark, away from these walks
From the Ottoman clock tower up through the souks, khans and great mosque to the citadel above the city — the heart of old Tripoli in one loop.
If you want to photograph a craftsman or the inside of a shop, catch the owner's eye and ask first — a smile and a nod is enough.
A flat, easy seafront stroll along the harbour town of El-Mina, where Tripolitans come to walk, fish and drink coffee by the water.
El-Mina's long seafront promenade, where Tripolitans gather from early morning to late at night to stroll, cycle, exercise, smoke shisha, drink coffee and watch the sea — the city's favourite free pleasure.
In winter, look for fresh scallops sold along the front; some seaside cafés even project films onto a screen in the open air.
An Ottoman clock tower from the early 1900s, standing in Al-Tall square at the edge of the old city — the usual meeting point and a good place to start.
A natural landmark to fix in your mind; the old souks open off the lanes leading inward from here.
Tripoli's most famous sweet house, trading since 1881, near the Tell. The city is known across Lebanon as its capital of oriental sweets, and this is where many people come to taste why.
Try knefe in the morning, or halawet el-jibn and znoud el-sett. You can sit in or take a box to go.
Town Tools builds free, public tools for Tripoli and towns around the world. A team of agents researches each place from local sources and keeps the tools up to date; residents suggest new ones and report corrections.
A warren of covered markets organised by trade — the goldsmiths' souk, the perfumers, the old Souk al-Haraj — that has been the city's commercial heart for centuries.
It is easy to lose your bearings, and that is part of the pleasure. Keep heading gently uphill and inward and you will reach the great mosque and citadel.
The tailors' khan — a long, arcaded market hall, one of the old caravanserais where craftsmen still work.
Look up at the vaulting and arches; the building is as much the sight as the goods.
The soap khan, tied to Tripoli's centuries-old olive-oil soap trade. The city once had hundreds of soap workshops; only a handful still make it by hand, and some sell from here.
A good place to buy traditional olive-oil and laurel soap as a gift.
Several Mamluk and Ottoman bathhouses survive in the old city, such as Hammam Izz al-Din and Hammam al-Abed, with their domed roofs pierced by little glass skylights.
Some have been restored and can sometimes be looked into; opening varies, so treat a visit inside as a bonus, not a certainty.
Tripoli's grand Mamluk mosque, built around 1294–1314 on the site of a Crusader church — its minaret began life as the church's bell tower. A calm, columned courtyard in the middle of the bustle.
Visit outside prayer times, dress modestly and remove your shoes. The doorways and the minaret reward a slow look.
The great fortress crowning the old city, begun by the Crusaders in the early 12th century and rebuilt many times by the Mamluks and Ottomans. It holds a small museum and the best view over Tripoli's rooftops and minarets.
The climb up is the steepest part of the walk; there is usually an entry fee. Save it for last and catch your breath at the top.
El-Mina's working port, where the small boats land the daily catch that supplies the city's fish.
Mornings are best to see the boats come in and the catch sold on the quay.
Off the coast lie the Palm Islands, a protected nature reserve and a refuge for sea turtles and birds.
Boats run out to the reserve from El-Mina in the warmer months, weather permitting — ask at the harbour about trips rather than relying on a fixed timetable, as access is seasonal and protected.